The Cheap Gamer – Magnets!

Again, like many of the recommendations of the Cheap Gamer, this will involve investing a little more money up front … but it really pays off over time.  I’m going to mainly cover how to use the strategy rather than the practicality of attaching magnets.

You can get very powerful small magnets, drill holes or attach them to your models, and bam, you can use the magnets to attach the parts to each other.  Brilliant!   Of course, you could attach parts with glue instead of gluing magnets and then using the magnets!  So whats the advantage?

The most common use is to magnetise various weapon options, so you as an example, you can buy one dreadnaught, but can field it with any of the weapons in the kit, rather than having to buy a new dreadnaught every time you want to try a different load out!

Another common use, though, is to keep models in various part for easy and safe transport and storage.  Rather than gluing massive wings on a model, attaching them with powerful magnets lets you break up the model for transport to and from games much more safely and securely, for example, and its a lot cheaper over time than having to replace broken models! 

You can also use magnets in bases to attach models to metal trays or really solid metal carry boxes, or magnets in legs and bases to be able to use top end  display models on both display plinths and gaming bases.

One idea that’s all mine, as far as I know, is taking the interchangeability concept of weapons, but going a step further and applying it to icons and markings.  Have a silver rhino?  If your icons can all be popped off and replaced with other magnetised ones, you could use it with multiple chapters of marines like Silver Skulls, Grey Knights, some orders of Sisters of Battle, Inquisition, heck, even cross lines and attach chaos icons for Iron Warriors.  Have a black rhino?  Deathwatch, Inquisition, Raven Guard, Black Legion, Sisters of Battle, and so on.  Its a fantastic money saver if you want to be able to field multiple armies that have similar colours, as you’ll rarely want to play as both armies at once.  And if you’re willing to compromise slightly, works well across chassis options too, like popping turrets and sponsons off magnetised predators to use them as rhinos in a different army, or using a whirlwind as a Sisters of Battle Exorcist.

Its really effective for decorating fortifications, like bastions, or making terrain really modular too.  Use magnets on walkways and key points before painting, and whole chunks of terrain become reconfigurable.  If you have a few standard size ruined buildings, having a few interchangeable floors can really change up the options for your battlefield.  And having a few extra magnets at decorative points can let you have different board themes for minimal extra cost – imagine being able to swap out streetlights from the buildings for dead bodies, or imperial eagles for chaos icons.

Bam!   Mind blown!  Reusability instead of huge chunks of cash and storage space.  Even if you spend a little more on the models and scenery to start with, its a massive saving over time, and actually can improve your gaming options and facilities.   Thats thinking like a Cheap Gamer.

How do I actually add magnets?  Well, there are countless youtube tutorials that are pretty easy to find, often covering specific minis.  Essentially, you either need to drill a hole to fit a magnet, or be able to attach the magnet on the other side of thin plastic or in an indent where it won’t affect the rest of the joint.  One of the really important things when working with magnets is to make sure you get the polarity right – if you put one in wrong, the two magnets will repel each other, not attract, and you’ll have two parts that will never go together!  A useful trick can be to stack them up together, then take them off the stack one at a time and put a dab of paint at one consistent end, so you know it will aways go blank to paint.

The Cheap Gamer – Terrain Part 2 – Picking a Theme

In the last Cheap Gamer article, we looked at loads of different options for building scenery with a whole range of different price points and effectiveness.  The last point we ended on was that we should really pick a theme, and build or buy parts to work together for that theme to maximise the effectiveness.

This article builds on that concept, together with some fantastic conversations I’ve had online with some of the top terrain guys (like the fantastic Ray Dranfield, head of terrain design at GW), and some of my own bonkers ideas.  It looks at some really good ways to pick a theme and colours to maximise your flexibility and options.

The Battle Board

Traditionally, the Battle Board would be painted brown, drybrushed ochre, and flocked green.  My Realm of Battle board from GW certainly is.  It does look pretty good, but its also pretty limiting to a green grass, mud and stone affair.

Chatting to Ray, he feels the best colours for a single board are probably a dusty grey with strong brown undertones.  It works for an industrial wasteland, a desert scape, or dusty churned up fields.  The very neutral colours let you get away with pretty much any scenery or play any sort of scenario without it feeling very out of place.

Obviously, if storage space and cost aren’t a major drama, you can have several, all themed in different ways.  That’s not really what the Cheap Gamer is about though – we’re all about maximising our fun and the effect of gaming without breaking the bank.

Those neutral colours are fantastic, and would work great with a wooden board prepped with a PVA and sand mix.  Paint it brown, heavy dry brush it grey, and maybe look for a darker grey slate effect or a lighter white rock on an odd flat patch.  Easy to paint, easy to make, easy to base models to match, and very very flexible.

Terrain Choices

Well, a great terrain choice in general is ruined gothic effect buildings.  There are some really neat tricks you can do with ruined buildings, as Ray pointed out.  If you plan out ruined corners and make sure the bases work together, you can deploy small compact ruined buildings, or spread them out to make the outline of big cathedrals with the same sort of corner pieces.  Unless you actually look for futuristic fortifications, the gothic grim dark and the ruined worlds of AoS can look pretty good with the same basic ruined buildings too, again, maximising that flexibility.

You can also, if careful in putting the ruins together, work out options for stacking ruined sections up as well.  if a base works as a ruined floor, your could stack two ruined corners up.  If you get the heights right, you can tie that into more unique pieces you might already have or pick up from games like Shadow War Armageddon.

These are great options for flexibility.  You can deploy ruined woods or alien jungles on this sort of a board, or chaos temples.  Its really easy to add to, and still keep a general feel of a ruined city.  Add some water effect areas and turn the dusty greys and browns into a miserable swamp – particularly fantastic with the new Death Guard minis.  The trick is that dusty grey and brown combo on the board.

One nice trick is to liven areas up with a few simple foam tiles, painted to match the terrain board but with some unique paint schemes.  Maybe a Mechanicus area with vehicle bays like a modern carpark?   or a mine entrance, with a elevator down sprayed on or added with a few bits of Plasticard.  You can really play with a few simple, easy to store tiles to add to the effects.  And hills (particularly cheap plastic ones from Amera) can be added with matching colours to really add to the effect.

Vehicles as Terrain

All too often, the only ruined vehicles that lurk on the board are our own casualties.  Well, thats definitely true of my armies anyway ūüėČ  What we forget, particularly if we’ve been in the hobby for quite a while, is that we can pop vehicles on the  board as terrain pieces in their own right.

Playing as Marines against Eldar, but have an Imperial Guard army?  Field a few Leman Russ tanks or Chimera transports as ruins, or in neat rows awaiting repair on the Mechanicus Forgeworld you battle over.  Its even more effective with some of the new Genestealer cult stuff, as their vehicles are civilian machinery, and the dusty grey terrain will look fantastic as a mining area.

We can add some really effective line of sight blocking terrain with a smoking Landraider.   it just works, and we’re getting use out of those models rather than buying more terrain.  Terrific!

If you have some spare torso bits from boxes from your armies (and honestly, you probably have a few), think about creating a few set pieces matching your board with dead infantry half buried in there.  Combine that with “ruined” vehicles (maybe just adding smoke effects, and taking skimmers off flying bases), you can do some brilliant xenos battlegrounds – a few dead Eldar around the board and some burned out falcons and wave serpents makes a fantastic backdrop for a Deathwatch mission, for example.  This works particularly well over the dusty grey and brown of a torn up battlefield.  Add some cheap craters too, and it can look amazing.

It actually tends to work best when you aren’t using the fallen army at all.  Using “extra” tanks from the armies you’re actually fielding can cause confusion.  Was that tank a kill point, or scenery?  But Deathwatch vs Tau over fallen Eldar?  No worries.

Incidentally, blobs of cotton wool dyed with a brush of black ink  can make great quick smoke effects for almost no cost!  Just make sure they are dry before you pop them onto your lovely vehicles.

Summary

There aren’t any right or wrong choices, really!  If you want to do a red mars field, you certainly can.  That will limits you to fighting over mars or similar red terrain, though.  Dusty grey and brown is a fantastically flexible, neutral combination.

Try to keep rocks and building materials in a similar set of colours, whether thats lighter whites or dark slate greys.  It’ll unify temples with hills.

The real key is working out how you can get the best effect, and, for the Cheap Gamer, minimising the cost.  For terrain, you can minimise cost best with reusability and flexibility.  If you need two sets of terrain for AoS and 40k, for example, that’s twice as much cost as a more general set that works for both.  Try to differentiate more by eye catching centrepieces than having to retheme everything.

The Cheap Gamer – Terrain!

Well, one of the big expenses of the hobby is a decent table and terrain to play through, and if anything, its a lot more expensive than the early days of the hobby.  In the past, it was pretty much expected to improvise terrain, or put it together yourself.  Now, there are tons of fantastic but very expensive terrain you can walk into GW and buy, and honestly if you can throw money at it, its an absolutely fantastic option.  But we can save huge amounts of money and still have some really, really good looking tables to play on.

There is a range of options at increasing cost:

  1. Build terrain in a Blue Peter style from household items.  This used to be the main way, and its generally quite lost these days, but it can be pretty effective.
  2. Find or buy, then print out cardboard/paper scenery.  This is actually really effective, easy to replace, and pretty cheap!  It does take a chunk of time assembling, but then its usually ready to go.  Its particularly good for RPG settings where you can tailor what you need for a particular session.
  3. Buy cheap scenery aimed for railway hobbying, kids toys or fish tanks.  Often quite striking pieces can be picked up for very little money, and things like trees and flock are far cheaper if you look for railway hobby stuff than the 28mm stores.  Generally in much larger quantities too!
  4. Look at custom scenery for gaming in cheaper materials.  MDF scenery is increasingly available at affordable prices, and companies like Amera do a fantastic job casting cheap great scenery pieces in plastic.
  5. Buy amazing pieces of terrain at the top end of the scale!
  6. Hire in professionals to design whole tables from scratch for you to rival Warhammer World.

Now, I’m assuming option 6 isn’t really an option, or you probably aren’t going to be reading my cheap gamer articles!  However, it is often useful to take bits from the various options to put together an overall table.  Maybe buy a more expensive terrain option to use as a centrepiece.  Add to home made terrain with a few railway style trees and flock to really bring it on.  Reduce the cost of flocking a whole GW battleboard by buying a massive bag of flock for decorating a whole railway layout.  Bear that in mind when we look at the options below!

The Blue Peter Approach!

I must confess, I love this option!  It brings me back to the early days in the hobby, where frankly scenery wasn’t even thought of by GW, and they released guides on how to make your own.

There are two main styles you can take here.  Use cheap parts, like lolly sticks or wooden stirrers, and put them together to create terrain (like this!).  It looks great, particularly for fantasy and barbaric stuff like orks, but you do need to either find plans to follow or have a pretty creative outlook to visualise what you want.   Polystyrene packing with a heat cutting wire can be fantastic for rock outcrops or hills.  (like this!).  Cardboard tubes sprayed silver can make fantastic oil pipes )and you could use wooden stirrers to build a frame!

The other approach is to find household items that look pretty much like an item of terrain to start with, spray them up, add some flock and basic drybrushing, and be ready to go!  Easter Egg plastic packaging can look great as a generator – spray it silver, maybe touch up a power plant look, and flock the edge.  Sorted!  The cardboard packaging that comes in electrical goods boxes and the like is often perfect for this sort of ready to go terrain.   Spray it white or grey, use some Army Painter Dip, and it looks pretty good from the start!

You can go a bit more expensive with the Blue Peter approach and start raiding hobby shops for things like foamboard and other parts.  Definitely worth it if you have time and a creative bent.

Papercraft!

Printing a building, folding it up and using it as scenery?  Won’t that look rubbish and boxy?

Actually, not anymore!  Things have moved a heck of a long way since the simple card sheets you may remember from the older GW games.  Companies like Fat Dragon Games have absolutely amazing ranges of fantastic products you can use to knock up custom boards with all sorts of options.  They use tools like Adobe layers to actually let you select styles of wall, adding creeping ivy and all sorts of brilliant tweaks.  You can produce sci-fi bases, fantasy cities, underground caves and all.

It can be a bit fiddly to assemble, and you will be running through ink and paper/card in your printer.  Depending on those resources, it can add up.  Heck, these days if you have a 3D printer, you can take this to the next level and print out your own plastic walls and minis – again, you will be spending on the tech and resources!

Toys, Railways and Fishtanks

These are fantastic, cheap resources for quick, easy and unique looking scenery, that after some extra painting and tweaks can look utterly fantastic for a fraction of the price of official terrain.  Toy castles when spraywed, washed and added effects like ivy can be a perfect scale and really cheap.  rocks and little temples to look like undersea scapes for fish tanks can look fantastic on the battlefield.

fish tank plastic plants can look amazing as alien jungles, and cheap trees from railway hobby lines often look more realistic and far cheaper than 28mm gaming woods.  And you can often pick up molds and casting stuff for railway scenery, as will as really cheap grass flock in bulk.

Just be careful when you look at this stuff about the scale!

MDF and cheaper Plastic terrain

I love this stuff. You can get all sorts of amazing scenery, it doesn’t feel too expensive, and its still really solid and durable.  Terrific!

A fair few companies do MDF terrain these days.  I can recommend TT Combat as a company – their Sheriff station for Malifaux or the Wild West is amazing.  I also really like the Terrain Shed.  There are lots of good alternatives out there, though.  You can get buildings for ¬£12, with amazing laser etched details.  Superb stuff, especially if you cherrypick a few pieces to act as centrepieces.

Amera Plastic Mouldings do absolutely fantastic plastic wargaming terrain, as single cast.  They look good, and are really cost effective.  Unlike terrain kits in the top bracket, though, they are single use kits as a one piece ready to go bit of terrain – the top end normally has a lot more assembly and options within a single kit, and often a load of customisable little details.  For me, though, that’s not a major drama – having 2 identical pyramids isn’t an issue if you want two big pyramids!

I’d recommend both of these options for gamers looking for awesome kits on a bit of a budget.

Top End GW and similar kits

Well, we’re Cheap Gamers!  Why are we talking about the expensive stuff?  Well, often it can pay to have a really nice piece of terrain to act as the focal point of the battle.  MDF or Amera stuff can certainly work with enough time and effort on the paint job, but having a lovely centrepiece from GW will often draw the eye away from cheaper pieces through the rest of the tabletop, and be a great backdrop for photos and the like.  Don’t go mad, but one or two key bits can really make a plain table feel like a cinematic experience.

Theme

The real key, though, is to pick a theme and stick with it across all the pieces you buy and put together, so they look good together on the table top.

You might have a couple of papercraft starships acting as drop points for the objective.  You might have a load of colourful plastic plants for a fishtank acting as an alien jungle, and a selection of Eldar MDF kits scattered across the board, making it look like an overgrown exodite world.

What doesn’t work is having earth style trees from a raliway hobby shop next to bright pink fish shop plants, with a wild west sheriffs office and a scifi set of walkways from shadow war, and the whole thing flocked in autumn reds.  Try to think how pieces will go together.  Rocks, chaos temples and the like are nicely generic, particularly if all the stone is pretty consistent in colour across the pieces.  Alien jungle or earth like looks for plants and trees can work, but stay a bit consistent.  And try to have a consistent timezone for the pieces you’ll put on the table together – 40k models playing over a fantasy table and castle can look great.  40k models in a wild west town and a fantasy castle with futuristic cars just looks odd.

 

 

The Lazy Mini Painter – Dips and Washes

Well, this sessions we’re going to be looking at dips and washes.  Dipping models is seen as a massive cheat by many painters.  Its not.  Its just another technique, at least for the Lazy Mini Painter!  Oddly enough, the same people who complain about dipping a model are often the same ones who happily wash a whole model in Agrax Earthshade and then spray on varnish, which does pretty much the same thing.

Lets start by looking at washes.  Washes are really nothing more than a particular tone of paint, heavily watered down.  When you apply it to a part of the model, it darkens it slightly, adds a slight amount of the wash colour to the tone, and pools in the recesses.  Unsurprisingly, you tend to use darker colours!  Lighter colours pooling the recesses can look a little odd!

Now, you can use enormous numbers of washes.  You can use dark blue washes over blue, yellow over yellow, green over green and so on.  Its a fantastic technique that adds a great virtual illusion of depth.  Incidentally, I always recommend mixing some Lahmia medium into the wash.  It tends to flow much much better, and leaves you with a cleaner effect, rather than the slight blobbing straight washes can leave.

However, we’re looking at doing this the Lazy Mini Painter way.  You don’t always need to use lots of washes.  A single wash of a brown or black leaves the whole model with appropriately coloured shadows shading the recesses.  It can work from top to bottom!  The best I’ve found for this are the Army Painter Soft Tone Quickshade, Strong Tone, Dark Tone, the old Devlan Mud from GW, and the current Agrax Earthshade.  My favourite is probably the AP Strong Tone.  Dark Tone is fantastic for metals where you want a darker contrast, though the GW Agrax Earthshade Gloss is probably the best for golds.

Now, if you want to use washes as your main technique for giving you miniatures a feeling of depth, its useful to have painted slightly lighter colours on as the base coat than you actually need.  A complete wash will darken the overall model, not just the recesses, so if you aren’t then going to highlight back up, you need to have started lighter than you actually want it to end up!

Dips are fundamentally the same technique as using a single quickshade across the models.  However, dips are basically a varnish – they combine a final all over wash with a varnish to do 2 stages of the painting process in one.  Despite the name, many painters like myself, tend to apply the dip with a brush.

One useful note – applying the dip gives you a fantastic surface to apply decals, though you will probably want to pop a little dip or varnish over the top of the decal afterwards.

Is this approach going to win you a Golden Demon?  No.  Will it let you get great tabletop quality armies out on the field asap?  Oh yeah, baby!

I tend to compromise – I use these sorts of techniques for troops, and will sometimes break them down.  If I’ve been doing separate heads and weapons with priming and painting, well, I might use 3 different dips!  Soft tone is great for flesh, heads, and light colours, dark tone for gun metal weapons, and strong tone is the general go to for everything else.

I’ll often use a wash rather than a dip, then apply a more matt varnish by a spray, if it matches the gritty feel of an army.  Cadian Infantry can look a bit odd in a shiny gloss.   My Eldar are shiny glory, and I field them lots, so I prefer a more resilient gloss finish for those.

So if we’re putting all our techniques together, we’ve primed up an army and done a load of the base coating in the process.  At some point we should finish off the base coats, and then we might have done a little optimised edge highlighting. We’ve now dipped our models, shading and varnishing in one process.

BONUS EXTRA!

One thing that the dips are fantastic for is for painting marble terrain.  Spray statues or building a plain white primer, making sure you get good coverage – maybe spray it twice.  Apply a load of Strong Tone dip by a brush, and you can a fantastic white rock/marble type look with absolutely minimum effort.  It is a brilliant time saver for big chunks of terrain.  The angel on the fortress of redemption, the marine statue, the lord of the rings walls and statues, they all look absolutely brilliant with very minimum effort.  After they are dry, applying some PVA in lines and flocking it to look like creeping vines is a great bonus extra.

 

 

Attack of #HobbyADD – Infinity, Malifaux and 40k in between…

Well, as always, I am suffering from #HobbyADD, but at the moment I think its a particularly advanced case! I’ve almost completed my #WAACPainting entry – the models are done – I just need some decent photos for an entry. ¬†I’m looking a knocking up a quick display board to take the photos on. So, current projects (in no particular order)!

1) ¬†Infinity Nomads! ¬†I’m very excited about Infinity! ¬†It looks like an amazing system, and the skirmish nature means I don’t need to assemble and paint huge numbers. ¬†Plus nuns with guns – my battle sisters can stride onto a new battlefield. ¬†I think I can hold off until Ice Storm though!

2) ¬†Malifaux I have a Lady Justice crew half assembled (I still need to put the Death Marshalls together. ¬†Interesting system with the card deck, and fascinating fluff and gorgeous models. ¬†Only problem is that I keep eying up Viktoria’s crew and Gremlins….. Hopefully I can stick to my guns (of justice!)

3) 40K – Sisters of Battle I need to paint about 2 models to “finish” my Order of the Argent Shroud, and about 6 models to “finish” my Order of the Verdant Garden. ¬†So close….

4) 40K – Imperial Fists This is my current “Churn em out army”. ¬†I do like the Sons of Dorn, and these will probably be my standard go to 40k army for a while. ¬†Assault terminators and forge world pads on the way to bolster a Lysander charge ūüôā

5) 40K – Pirate Orks Pirate orks. ¬† What more can I say? ¬†I have a fair few Orks from Assault on Black Reach, and Stormclaw may be lurking for an upcoming birthday. ¬†I’ve also got RTB02 ready to be repainted and take the field. ¬†Add some Flash Gitz, and Cap’n Kipp’s Freebootaz could be ready to go! ¬†Its a heck of a lot of models though, so I may end up holding off here.

6) 40K – Dark Craftworld Dark Eldar I have a reasonably DE force in need of some TLC. ¬†I’m really tempted to reorganise it as a fallen craft world and paint it in aspect colours – Striking Scorpion green for Incubi, blaster wielding kabalites as fire dragons, kabalites as Dire Avenger blues, Wyches in howling banshee bone and so on.

7) Ax Faction minis for fun I’m looking at using some of these as Inquisition forces too, so not purely just for fun. ¬†Cracking sculpts on these.

8) 40K – Fallen Angels This army has been lurking for ages and been bolstered by the DV set. ¬†Totally unpainted for over 7 years….. I really should at least prime them!!!

9) 40K РRTB01 Crimson Fists Army Ah, my beloved Crimson Fists!  Painstakingly gathered from eBay to replace an army that got lost on a train years ago.  The plan is to recreate the classic Rogue Trader front cover.  Navy primer is ready to go!

10) 40K – Ultramarines More marines! ¬†I actually have a fairly decent collection of ultramarines, some primed, some badly painted. ¬†I’m just missing a HQ force here really! ¬†Ironclad dreadnoughts and bikers recently added to the increasing forces.¬†¬† I now have a complete enough force not to worry about these! ¬†Counting Ultramarines as done!

11) 40K РCrimson Slaughter I have a reasonably solid force of CSMs in red and gold, perfect for the role of Crimson Slaughter.  With the addition of the Crimson Slaughter specific models from the DV set, this would be a great little force (possibly in need of a bastion or helturkey for anti air).  Just the CSMs from DV to paint here, though a fair few khorne beserkers need some finishing too.

12) ¬†X-Wing Not started here, but a good guy locally loves it, and wants to play. ¬†I love Star Wars, so I suspect mistakes will be made here ūüėČ

13)  Armada If I like Star Wars star fighters, running a fleet as an admiral????  Yeah, this is happening.

14) DnD 5e Absolutely love everything I’ve seen for this so far! ¬†Just wish digital versions of the core books were coming out as space is an issue.

15) 40K – Space Wolves My first 40K force back in the 80s! ¬†The storm claw set has sucked me back in. ¬†I’m not a huge fan of a lot of the recent vehicles, but the current character modelling is amazing. ¬†Definitely to be painted in grey instead of the rubbish modern light blue though. ¬†Will probably just be an allies force rather than a full blown 1850pts army.

16)  40K РBlood Angels Really struggling for enthusiasm here!  I have some really quite nice chapter leaders painted up, and some gorgeous terminators from Space Hulk to paint.  I have primed basic troops, and unbuilt death company and sanguinary guard.  Just not feeling too enthused, particularly without a current codex.

17) 40K РSilver Skulls Loads of unbuilt models for this, and they fit with my long term plans of having a range of silver armies sharing some vehicles with magnetised logos with my Order of the Argent Shroud and Grey Knights.  Need to work out the skulls for the shoulders and a quick effective paint scheme here!

18) ¬†40K – Eldar Loads of unpainted Eldar, and loads of painted ones! Recently bolsters by ¬†Eldrad, a new Avatar and some warlocks. ¬†I need to sort out some effective fighting forces here – I think painting the remaining ones is quite low down the list. ¬†Really tempted to add more wraith warriors at all levels though ….

19) ¬†40K – Tau My Tau are pretty much done with a reasonable force. ¬†There are a couple of options half painted that I’d like to finish off, and perhaps add some broadsides and riptides, but generally these are pretty low on the list as they have a fully painted force!¬† Ticking these off the list as have a sorted out painted playable army matching all my main criteria. ¬†Not ideal, as could do with slightly different options, but cool.

20)  40K РGrey Knights! New codex due out, decent force already, and only a couple of things needed to be finished or assembled to finish them off!  Also awesome with the new psychic phase.  These guys may well be seeing the table again soon.  Dreadknight is tempting me!

21) 40K РImperial Guard Valhallans Pretty much sorted out and ready to go!  Not great paint jobs, but OK enough to get by.  some basing of heavy weapons needed here.

22) 40K – Imperial Guard Cadians Ouch. ¬†Loads of men, not much paint, and pretty much every heavy weapons squad needs to be rebased. ¬†Lots and lots of work, not much enthusiasm at present ūüôĀ

23) 40K РLegion of the Damned I have 15 Legion to be painted to use as an allied force to other Imperial types.  Struggling to get enthused though.

24) 40K РDeathwatch I have a 10 man squad with custom pads (both DW and a range of chapters), heads, guns, all ready to be assembled!  Must get around to building and painting these.  Very excited with my Inquistions types.

25) 40K – Inquisition I have a load of models from a range of manufacturers to put together as my Inquistion force. ¬†Female paladins as crusaders, floating psykers, daemonhosts, the lot! ¬†Very cool and good allies for almost all the other Imperial forces. ¬†Quite excited, but as I haven’t started they are quite low down the list.

26) ¬†40K – Tyranids I’d love to get this army finished to at least 1850 points! ¬†They look gorgeous, and are easy to do. ¬†I’m struggling motivation wise here as I basically need to buy¬†a fresh army to make them playable with tervigons, more termagants and flying MCs. ¬†I have genestealers aplenty to paint. ¬†Hmm.

27) 40K РNecrons I have a fully painted army of these bad boys Рrubbish in the current game, but fully painted and ready to go.  w00t!!!!  Could do with some newer models, but not loving the new fluff anyway. Counting these as done for now!  I have a complete playable and painted army all sorted out.  Not great, but done!

28) 40K РMilitarum Tempestus I have a reasonable number of Karskrin Stormtrooper squads here.  No new stormtroopers, but enough to work well with inquisition or guard voices quite effectively!  None really painted, boo hiss!

29) ¬†Scenary! I have a huge amount of scenery to assemble and/or paint. ¬†From an Imperial City to Altars of Chaos, it’d look amazing on my battle board. ¬†As it doesn’t affect my actual games too much though, difficult to find the time!

Sooo, 29 reasonably sized projects, and possibly a few more kickstarter bits to go too.  Ouch!  #HobbyADD indeed!

Terrain for Warhammer 40K – Tau

Brush 4 Hire do some fabulous tau scenery. ¬†What really impresses here is that you can select the colour of the forcefields … to match your Tau Sept. ¬†Really nice touch. ¬†Their bunker looks really good, though if you like a very rounded look for Tau, it might be too hexagonal for you.

And here are their matching barricades (or Aegis Defense lines!)

Scotia Grendel have a range of scenery that seems perfect for Tau Рtheir NBO range.  Here a couple of examples.

 

Micro Art Studios have a fabulous Tau Ceti line of scenery that would work fabulously for Tau. Their defence line looks awesome:

But their general scenery would really make a Tau board come to life.

 

Terrain for Warhammer 40K – Eldar

Games Workshop make fantastic models, and their Imperial terrain is absolutely superb. ¬†Unfortunately, if you don’t want imperial type terrain (or a hill or two), you are pretty much out of luck!

Lets take a look at what we can find for terrain for other races, or cheaper alternatives for a home board!

Eldar

There are some very good Eldar pieces of terrain available on the market at the moment.

Minature Scenery in Australia do some fantastic MDF pieces, which can easily fill in the traditional roles of bastion (Elven Tower) :

A Skyshield Landing Platform (or Elven Dias):

And, of course, an Aegis Defense Line (or Sanctuary of Souls):

In addition, their walkways and space modulators are fantastic for people putting together an Eldar themed board.

Brush 4 Hire do an interesting range of Aegis Defense Line alternatives, one of which works quite well as an advanced Eldar concept Рtheir forcefield defines line!  You can pick the colour of the translucent plastic force shield, to match your craftworld a bit better!

Micro Art Studios do a fantastic set of barricades or Aegis defines line too!

There once was a template for creating your own webway gate on the GW site, but like much of the old school hobby stuff, this has long since been removed.  A retro-engineered version can be found on a here, though!

I’m sure there are a few more options out there – I’ll update this post if/when I come across them!

 

Yet more Battleboard!

Well, the battleboard is tantalisingly close to complete – two board sections are finished!

I need more scorched grass to finish up, so will be raiding GW some point this week.

Essentially, I drybrushed all the boards with Ochre, which looks pretty good. The drybrushing on such a scale isn’t as even as I’d like – if I was doing a moonscape or marscape and leaving it there, I’d be disappointed. As I’m flocking the board, though, the Ochre drybrushing doesn’t have to be perfect; it just needs to break up the brown.

After drybrushing and letting it dry, I started to flock the board, adding large patchs of lighter grass. I had some initial issues, largely because it was a blazing hot day and the PVA dried faster than I expected! I went back and flocked and varnished the two flat boards – I just need to finish the part flocked hills now.

James – once the Battleboard is complete, can I tempt you to travel around London for some 40k fun?